Denise Wingate: "I fell into costume design by complete accident"
The award-winning costume designer behind Cruel Intentions and Daisy Jones and the Six discusses trendsetting, reboots, and decades of timeless magic
Denise Wingate knows how to make a lasting impression. From the sharp-edged sophistication of Cruel Intentions (1999) to the gown of dreams in A Cinderella Story (2004), the costume designer has created some of the most memorable and diverse character looks of the last three decades. We’re talking tanning goggles, bridesmaid’s dresses, and heist-ready Henley’s.
Fast-forward to 2024 and Wingate’s name is still on our lips, thanks to her award-winning work on Daisy Jones and the Six. In March, Wingate won her first Primetime Emmy for her work on the 2023 series, in which she transformed the likes of Sam Claflin and Suki Waterhouse from ‘iPhone faces’ to 70s rock icons. These striking period costumes not only brought Taylor Jenkins Reid’s vision to life—they kickstarted a 70s fashion revival amongst cool girls everywhere. (Anyone else still looking for Riley Keough’s gold glitter cape?)
Meanwhile, this year marks the 25th anniversary for two of Wingate’s most iconic projects, Cruel Intentions and She’s All That, whose outfits haven’t aged a day since 1999. Ahead of these milestones, I had the pleasure of speaking to the costume designer about her creative processes and timeless magic.
How did you get into costume design?
Denise Wingate: I fell into costume design by complete accident. I never went to fashion school. I moved to New York from Los Angeles when I was 18 years old and was working in a clothing store where I met a stylist who asked if I wanted to assist her. I worked as an assistant for years and worked my way up the ladder. It was a lot of long hours and hard work, but by the time I had the chance to design on my own, I felt I was ready. That being said, even after over 30 years, I still learn something new on every job!
You’ve designed the costumes for so many iconic characters throughout your career. Which of these characters would you say most closely resembles your own personal style?
Denise Wingate: I don’t think I have ever dressed a character that resembles my own personal style. Every character is different and unique; the costumes reflect that. Besides, my own style is pretty eclectic.
One of your most famous projects is the costume design in Cruel Intentions, which has sustained its stylish appeal since its release 25 years ago. What is the key to keeping costumes timeless?
Denise Wingate: I specifically wanted the costumes on that movie to be timeless—a kind of sophistication that is not typical for teenagers. I stayed away from any period identifying labels or logos, and then incorporated designs that had period silhouettes as a nod to the original Dangerous Liaisons (1988). I was proud of the way that film looked, and it is a great example of how a very small, collaborative group of people can work together to create a very cohesive, specific look.
When designing costumes for certain projects, do you consider how they may translate into popular culture or influence trends?
Denise Wingate: I never think about that when I am working on a project. It was definitely exciting when that happened on Daisy Jones. I had no idea at the time that it would inspire fashion trends with so many young people.
As with a lot of films and series nowadays, Daisy Jones and the Six was adapted from a book. Did any of the descriptions of clothing in the book particularly influence the way you chose to design certain costumes?
Denise Wingate: I did try to follow author Taylor Jenkins Reid's vivid descriptions as much as possible, and I knew that fans of the book would be expecting a certain look. Of course, there were instances that were more interpretive, but not too many.
A few years ago, you reprised your role as costume designer for the She’s All That reboot, He’s All That. Are there any more of your past projects that you would be especially keen to revisit or work on again?
Denise Wingate: I loved She’s All That, and it was a complete fluke that He’s All That happened when it did. It was during the Covid pandemic and Daisy Jones and the Six was on hold, so the timing worked out perfectly. In general, I don't feel the need to revisit something I’ve already done, the exciting part of my job is always doing new things. I know that there have been some reboots of Cruel Intentions but recreating it with a different cast doesn’t really interest me.
Have there ever been any characters you found more challenging to design for?
Denise Wingate: Characters are not challenging per se, but it can be difficult when there are a lot of conflicting ideas about who the character should be. Depending on the size of the production, there can be a lot of different opinions—from the director, producers, studio executives, and actors—which can make my job more challenging.
What’s the most rewarding part of your job?
Denise Wingate: When I am in a fitting with an actor and they really “find” the character through the costumes. Sometimes they come in and are still thinking about who their character is, and I believe it is my job to help facilitate that.
Are there any costume designers that particularly inspire you?
Denise Wingate: There are so many talented designers working right now who inspire me. Historically, I suppose that Edith Head would be the Grande Dame of them all.
If you had to dress like one character for the rest of your life, who would it be and why?
Denise Wingate: Annie Hall. Such a classic, timeless, fashionable look.
